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The following list of parts, materials and instructions may look overwhelming, but don't despair. Just do one thing at a time and eventually you'll get there. The equipment below is my recommendation only and does not mean these are the only items that will work.
Lengths are not given for some of the materials because I don't know where you may be installing a certain item - measure twice, cut once. The editorial comments are mine alone and should be taken with a grain of salt water. The following instructions apply to a Yanmar 1GM10 diesel; other engines are available.
There is a must have manual available from your Yanmar dealer on how to install your diesel engine, however it does not describe how to install a fiberglass stern tube - it describes the bolt-on version.
Most of my instructions deal with stern tube alignment and installation. Ask for the Marine Engine Installation Manual for Pleasure Boat Use (part number 0000A0A1028-830411). Two more books that are so-so: From a Bare Hull by Ferenc Mate and Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat by Daniel Spurr (illustrated by none other than Bruce Bingham!).
After installation, taking a diesel maintenance class from a local dealer would be a great idea. With the Yanmar manual, a ship's store catalog and a diesel equipped Flicka nearby you don't need my inane ramblings.
If I got something wrong or if this is confusing please forgive me - I'm writing much of this from memory. Contact me for clarification. Onward!
PARTS
Don't buy anything without making sure all the mating parts all compatible.
Morse MV-2 single lever, Berkeley, right hand engine control. I don't like it but it's the only one around.
Morse 33C Supreme Red-Jacket (sic) control cables - push/pull for fuel and transmission. Nice!
2-blade bronze prop or 3-blade bronze prop for 1" shaft. Two blade O.K. in current, great for light air sailing as it can hide in the prop aperture deadwood. Three blade great in current, bad for light air sailing. This is a section where I can't give any concrete answers because of the variations in engine, transmission and hull aperture configurations. A decent prop shop will have a computer program set up to advise you of the proper diameter and pitch. You will need to know engine horsepower, hull type (full keel, sailboat), transmission reduction ratio, aperture dimensions, etc. There are at least three different transmission reduction ratio options available on the Yanmar - look for the information stamped on the top of the transmission. The horsepower rating for a 1GM is 7.5 hp. and the horsepower rating for the 1GM10 is 9 hp.
1" I.D. x 1-1/4" OD shaft bearings (2 required). These are also called cutlass bearings. This will be the Morse "Blackfish" or the Johnson "Back". Other sizes are available - depends on which stern tube you use. See which one you're more comfortable with. (EDITOR: Cutlass bearing sizes are denoted by "names.")
Racor Model 500FG fuel filter/water separator. (Yeooow, look at the size of that thing!) If you can still find the 250FG use it 'cause it's smaller. I do not recommend the Fram series.
Groco ARG500 water strainer. This is for 1/2" hose. ( I like bronze)
1/2" raw water hose vacuum breaker (also called a vented loop). (I like bronze.)
1/2" or 3/4" Groco seacock with thru-hull fitting and tailpiece. (I like bronze - is there an echo in here?)
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