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It's time to replace the cutlass bearing on my '83 Flicka. Today I called Pacific Seacraft for the part number and ordered a replacement from West Marine.
Can anyone on this board offer suggestions as to how to change the bearing. I've never done this before. What's involved? Does the shaft have to be realigned afterwards. Is this realistically a job I can do myself or am I better off getting the yard to do it? If the yard does it, what are some things to look for to make sure they do it correctly? Any and all input is appreciated!
Howdy!
Cutlass bearing, eh? You can try to change the bearing yourself and if it gets to be too much ask the yard to take over. The questions to ask oneself (in my opinion) is, "Do you want the learning experience of boat maintenance and save money or do you just want the bearing changed by someone and be done with it?" If the yard does it, get a quote and see if it's acceptable to you. Ask if that includes shaft realignment and what happens if they run into unexpected problems. I've replaced lots of cutlass bearings and never saw the need to realign the shaft.
If you do it yourself, the first thing you have to check is CORROSION! To replace the bearing you should pull the shaft. If the shaft couplers are rusted together, the task may become more difficult and time consuming! If the coupler cannot be removed from the prop shaft - ouch! There is a way to replace the bearing without removing the shaft but then you will have to remove the prop! If the prop is corroded onto the shaft then you're at risk of bending the shaft or prop.
Assuming the shaft couplers come apart easily, remove the shaft. Then remove the cutlass bearing by first removing the two set screws/lock nuts located at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock positions on the hull (assuming 12:00 o'clock is up) where the old bearing is located. Make sure there are no other screws left inside! You may have to scrape off some bottom paint to locate them. These screws keep the cutlass bearing from spinning and coming out. Next remove the stuffing box. Remove the bearing by placing a large socket or pipe just smaller than the shaft log tube next to the bronze housing and tap the bearing out thru the shaft log tube. You may have to hammer hard at first. If it doesn't move try from the outside. You will need a real long extension on the socket to hammer the bearing all the way thru the shaft log tube. (Note: If the cutlass bearing moves by tapping it from the outside, try driving the shaft out from inside the boat again.)
Once the old bearing is removed, gently hammer the new bearing into the shaft log (use a piece of wood 2x4) Now, with a marking pen, place a mark at the 12:00 o'clock position on the bronze housing and the outside of the shaft log (hull) to register the position of the cutlass bearing with the shaft log. Use the pen to mark the location of the two set screw on the new bearing thru the set screw holes in the hull (shaft log). Remove the new bearing and drill two small dimples (not holes) where the setscrews will seat. Grease the outside of the cutlass bearing with marine lube. Align the bearing to the shaft log using the pen mark at 12:00 o'clock. Ensure the dimples in the new cutlass bearing lineup with the setscrew holes and install the setscrews - not too tight, you don't want to strip out the fiberglass threads! Reinstall the stuffing box, shaft, couplers, etc. Be sure to lube any mating surfaces and grease the outside of any exposed steel surfaces. Replace all bolts with stainless one, if you can and grease the threads.
If you want to align the shaft, you will find it is easier to accomplish if you buy another bearing and install it at the forward most end of the shaft log tube. You will now have two bearings supporting the prop shaft. The extra bearing will support the prop shaft assembly so you won't have to. Realign everything, remove the "support" bearing and reinstall the stuffing box, etc. permanently. Remember to grease the engine mounting screws and nuts after realignment!
Jack Harding,
Flicka #298
Rod Bruckdorfer
©: copyright 1999 Rod Bruckdorfer
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