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Feb 26

Written by: Bill Hogan
2/26/2010 2:15 AM 

 


 Lowrance HDS 5 on RAM Mount I deliberately installed it so that 2 wash boards could be kept in. The RAM mount is brilliant - it allows quick re-positioning on various points of sail, and I think it's much better than any bulkhead or console mount.

 

 Detail - I like to have all my navigation data in the same general location. Interestingly, the compass and GPS agree exactly on the magnetic heading, but the fluxgate compass on the autopilot is wildly off, so I igonore it's heading data and steer by the GPS and ships compas.

 

 Can't do this with a console mounted chartplotter. Nice and dry inside. So far, no interference from the electronics on the magnetic compass.

 

 "Watts up" 50 amp watt logging meter. This is th eheart of my data collection system. It logs  total amps consumed (or generated) in real time, as well as voltage and watt stats. $50.

http://www.advantagehobby.com/product.php?productid=34855&cat=416

 

The model airplane hobby guys have this power management thing down to a science. Litterally.

 

 Stern Anchor. I also have a plow and an honest to gosh, original Bruce on board.

 

 Haws pipe. I probably don't really need that swivel.

 

 Rode flaked in locker - Needs a bulkhead and some cable re-routing.

 

 Xantrex 1000 watt MSW inverter in hanging locker. Still need to clean up wires but I used all marine grade cables fully tinned and jacketed...

 

 Accessory subpanel wired to watt meter. I got tired of wiring new toys directly into the battery without fuse protection. It's aso important to label all the wires. A Brother P-Touch labeler is brilliant for this.

 All battery connections labeled as are all panel connecetions with Brother "P-touch" labeler. The whole array is protected by an 80 amp fuse under the positive terminal.

 

 Port Preventer line, cleat and shackle. Keeps the boom under control downwind.

 

 Gotta hate that white 3m adheisive. t gets all over everything.

 

 Preventer line fairleads on toe rail. I got sick of tripping on the lines. I'm doing to relocate locate the jacklines along the cabin top near the centerline.

 

 Preventer block shackled to base of forward stancheon and held off deck with bungee.

 Port side -deck - clear! Yellow webbing is my jackline. Again, I'm going to relocate it inboard.

 

 Foredeck arrangement. It's easier to keep my sails on deck most of the time. Bags are clipped to lifelines in settled conditions. As things pick-up, I stow the larger sails below. One of the biggest challenges with changing hank-on sails is finding the foot and luff, and then managing the sail while on a heaving fordeck. The following is a solution I adapted from Brion Toss's "Riggers Apprentice":

Bugee keeps hanks and luff ordered inside of bag for quick sail changes. I now have this set-up for each sail:

Bungee across pulpit rail

 This payment has greatly sped up the sail change process. from 5 minutes to under three. Still looking for more efficiency...

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2 comment(s) so far...

Re: Various updates - chartplotter, stern anchor, preventers, watt meter, hank magazine.

Nice pics Bill!

your brightwork looks nice, especially the wash boards. I know the work it takes to keep it like that! Good effort!

I see you got a Fortress anchor for a kedge. Good stuff. I love the Fortress. I used it as my main anchor for years in the Med and it never let me down.
On sand I feel there is no better anchor but don't use the deep angled setting if the sand is very hard. The shallow angle works blindingly well. With rope warp and a section of chain near the anchor you have a very light system that absorbs shock nicely. As a kedge anchor the one you have is way more than you need. If your bow anchor fails you might find yourself sitting stern-to on the Fortress! Also be carefull in deep mud. You might have trouble getting that Fortress out!

By Gus on   2/26/2010 6:38 PM

Re: Various updates - chartplotter, stern anchor, preventers, watt meter, hank magazine.

Fine flicks of your Flicka Bill. They truly represent your fine Yacht and her owner, you. Thanks for spending your time in showing me Dangerous and Nomad last Saturday. I left wishing I'd found something else about which to ask or comment upon. Now that I'm home, watching the force 6 wind blow the tops off of the mini-waves and listening to hail bounce off of our metal roof, I'm dreaming of being on a Flicka suited up in a mustang with my cuppa Joe and reefed main, headed out of the mud flats for deeper water.

Regarding the non-skid we discussed. I can't remember what I used. I found both a silica based and fairly fine walnut shell material in my shop. I used to apply the walnut shell on my boat decks a long time ago. They did a good job, but didn't look as nice as the finer material. I think both would work well with any paint or clear protective deck coat. I believe the key in good looks is to mask off symmetrical areas on your deck or cap rail at the bow. I'm a firm believer in safety being more important than looks, but both is usually possible. Good luck with Nomad.

I'll give you a call to buy you lunch if I return to your area.

Frank Dare

By Frank Dare on   3/8/2010 11:48 PM

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